A four-day cooking course in Tuscany sounded like an experience of a lifetime. But did Flavours disappoint?

 

Having attended many cookery schools over the years (Rick Stein’s in Padstow, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saison in Oxfordshire and Gordon Ramsey’s in Chelsea, to name a few), I was more than excited to visit Italy for my first foreign residential course.

Following a chaotic transfer from Pisa, we arrive at the venue. Villa Selvatelle is a pretty Tuscan villa, set amongst olive groves in typically stunning countryside. It’s roughly half-way between Pisa and Florence.

The ensuite rooms are generously proportioned. Some have a balcony. Even in early May, the huge swimming pool in the grounds is inviting, particularly in the afternoon sunshine, when temperatures reach the mid-20s.

There is a large common area with a long dining table, where the seven course attendees, and my wife, are served dinner each evening, with lashings of local Chianti. Apart from the Chef, I am the only man.

The course, run by Flavours Holidays, is a four-day event punctuated by half-day trips: to a local vineyard and into Florence, leaving roughly three half-days for the cooking.

Our host, Louise, is a friendly twenty-something who recently switched careers to work in tourism. “I worked as a journalist for a while” she says, “But it wasn’t for me”. She works long hours, serving our breakfast and dinner, accompanying the group tours, acting as translator during class.

The classes are split between the dining area and the kitchen. In the dining area, we’re lectured by local Chef Mauro, in broken English, with occasional help from Louise. We also prepare ingredients on the long table.

The kitchen is well-equipped but, disappointingly, has only one range cooker. Gradually, we realise that this is less of a cooking course and more of a demonstration. This contrasts with other courses I’ve attended where, worst-case, there would be two sharing a stove.

Some of us manage to involve ourselves in the cooking, while others stand sullenly around the sides. There is much complaint over dinner: “I shall be writing a letter” says one, a lawyer.

The food that we cook is typical Italian country fayre: Gnocchi, Tagliatelle, Boar Stew, Pork chops, Tiramisu.

Mauro is a large, friendly, stereotypical Italian chef. “Kneada da dough until isa no sticky” he says, waving and perspiring heavily, as we make fresh tagliatelle.

We spend evenings around the dinner table, then fall into comfortable sofas nearby to finish the wine. It’s a sociable group and, thankfully, everyone gets along.

The course ends and we are transported back to Pisa for our flight.

What did I learn? Not a lot. But as a memorable short break in a beautiful spot with some new friends and delicious food, it certainly isn’t a trip I regret.

The course costs around £1,100 per head including meals, wine, accommodation for three nights and airport transfers. Flights extra. Flavours Holidays are available at 0131 343 2500 or on the web at https://www.flavoursholidays.co.uk/

--ends--

25 Sep 22

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